How BAPE Became One Of The Most Popular Streetwear Brands

August 2024 · 10 minute read

When you think about the biggest streetwear brands in the world, BAPE should definitely be on your list. Ever since its inception in the early 90s, BAPE has changed the game when it comes to how we see clothes. These days, streetwear can be considered high fashion thanks to some of the concepts that BAPE founder Nigo came up with during his rise to fame. Virgil Abloh's Off-White, Supreme, and various other high-end streetwear brands were inspired by BAPE, and even now, the imprint is held in high regard by industry leaders.

BAPE laid the foundation for the streetwear landscape we have today, and it is also responsible for some legendary hip-hop moments. From the Drake and Pusha T beef to Pharrell's very own clothing brands, all roads lead back to BAPE. One could just go on GOAT right now and you would be met with a historical archive that showcases just how much fans love themselves some BAPE.

Nigo's accomplishments with BAPE are nothing short of miraculous, and the rise of the brand is most certainly worth documenting.

BAPE: A Brief History

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BAPE's history began back in 1993 when Nigo, legally known as Tomoaki Nagao, opened his NOWHERE shop with Jun Takahashi. If Takahashi's name is familiar to you, it is because he is the man responsible for another huge brand, Undercover. These two met at fashion college, and they used their newfound knowledge to turn NOWHERE into an overnight success. This is when A Bathing Ape was born, with Nigo using his store as the perfect place to show off his fresh new brand.

There were numerous inspirations that led to the name "A Bathing Ape." As a kid, Nigo used to watch Planet of the Apes movies, and he fell in love with the concept. From there, Nigo also wanted his brand's name to poke a little bit of fun at his biggest customers. There is a Japanese idiom that reads “a bathing ape in lukewarm water." Lukewarm baths are a sign of wealth and opulence in Japan. They can also refer to how some of the youth of the country lead complacent lives in which they only seek to have status. In many ways, streetwear and high-end clothes are status symbols, which is why Nigo felt like this was the perfect name for his imprint. Sure, it might be sarcastic and a bit patronizing, but it's worked wonders for him.

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As for the Ape head logo, that all comes back to the Planet of the Apes. If you look at the logo, you will quickly realize that the brand's mascot looks a lot like the ape costumes found in the legendary sci-fi film. It is a nice little reference that helps bring the brand into its own.

Storytelling is a huge part of brand-building, and Nigo understood this. His personal experiences and his critique of Japanese culture ultimately led to BAPE's core identity. It's something that fans can identify with, and when you pair that history with BAPE's aesthetics, it's easy to see how BAPE became such a powerhouse.

BAPE's Signature Look

BAPE's aesthetics are some of the most iconic in the world and there is no doubt that they have left their mark on the streetwear world. The mark of a great brand is one that knows how to identify itself. Without an identity, it's impossible to get consumers to care. Adidas has the three stripes, Nike has the check, and Puma has, well, you know, a puma. Nigo understood just how important it is to have a signature look, and he made sure to bring that understanding to his legendary imprint.

Image via GOAT

Of course, BAPE's claim to fame is its Ape head, which, as we mentioned, looks like something from Planet of the Apes. The Ape head has been used on various pieces of merchandise, and it is still a staple of the brand's overall aesthetic. In fact, the Ape head is also part of BAPE's most infamous contribution to streetwear culture, BAPE camo. From shirts to hoodies to shorts, almost everyone has seen the infamous BAPE camo. In essence, the look is actually quite simple. It takes your usual camo aesthetic and adds the Ape head into the mix. Regardless of the color, the Ape's head always blends in perfectly with the camo pattern. It can be easy to miss the Ape's head, but once you find it, you immediately realize you're staring at something that was constructed in the mind of Nigo himself.

Image via GOAT

Perhaps BAPE's most iconic piece of clothing is the zip-up shark hoodie. The shark hoodie uses BAPE's camo pattern as a base, although it ultimately takes things in a unique direction by adding a shark face to both sides of the hood. When you zip up the hoodie all the way to the top, the shark face is completed, leaving you with a look that is just as iconic as Supreme's infamous red box logo. Nigo has always been a master at creating recognizable pieces of clothing, and the shark hoodie is a perfect example of how a simple concept can be taken so far.

In addition to its regular camo offering, BAPE also has what is referred to as "Cloud Camo." This camo look is different as it distorts everything, which makes the pattern look more complicated. The Ape head and the surrounding camo elements are deflated and stretched out, which makes them blend together even more. Interestingly enough, "Cloud Camo" has been placed on more than just clothes. It has made its way onto couches, chairs, skateboards, and even tissue paper cases. The mark of a legendary streetwear brand is one that can place its signature look on more than just clothes, and BAPE definitely passes that test.

BAPE's Cultural Impact

Interestingly enough, BAPE's rise in North America was in large part due to the influence of hip-hop on our culture. Of course, this was all by design as Nigo met Pharrell in Tokyo during the mid-2000s. The BAPE founder was referred to Pharrell by Jacob the Jeweler and it led to a fruitful relationship that has lasted decades. Pharrell loved Nigo's designs so much that he could always be seen wearing BAPE. Whether it be on the street or on the red carpet, the infamous BAPE logo could always be found in close proximity to the legendary producer.

Eventually, Pharrell introduced BAPE to the likes of Pusha T, and even Kanye. Ye loved BAPE so much that he even designed his very own Bapesta. For those who are unaware, the Bapesta is a Nike Air Force 1 Low-inspired sneaker that comes with shiny leather uppers. There have been some amazing Bapestas over the years and Kanye's collaboration is one that has always been beloved by fans. As you can see below, the shoe has the Teddy Bear mascot from Ye's first three albums, and it even has a brown and beige color scheme to match. These came out in 2007, and all these years later, fans still want a piece of them.

Image via GOAT

BAPE's big breakout in North America was also marked by Soulja Boy's 2007 smash hit "Crank That." In the music video, Soulja Boy can be seen wearing a flashy pair of red and yellow patent leather Bapesta. He even references the pair in the line “Haters getting mad 'cause I got me some Bathing Apes.”

It is references like these that ultimately helped make BAPE such a household name in North America. The youth are incredibly impressionable, and when they see their favorite artist rocking a brand, you know they're going to want to follow suit. Hip-hop continues to be a champion for BAPE, which means the brand won't be going away, anytime soon.

BAPE's Best Collaborations

Another mark of a successful brand is one that can collaborate with other equally-successful imprints. Streetwear enthusiasts love a good collaboration, and BAPE has had plenty of them over the years. From fellow streetwear brands to high fashion to Soda companies, BAPE has a successful history of synergizing its aesthetics with others. These collabs have always led to a ton of hype and have also been quite legendary within the streetwear community.

For instance, BAPE teamed up with its biggest competitor, Supreme, back in 2002. Twenty years later, fans are begging for this collaboration to make a comeback. It was a very simple collaboration as Supreme took its iconic box logo t-shirt and made the box out of BAPE's signature camo. There were 15 different versions of the shirt, and they all go for thousands of dollars on the resale market. This is one of those collaborations that is still held in high regard to this day, and surprisingly, some streetwear heads don't even know it exists. You'll be hard-pressed to find an unworn piece from this collab, and we can only hope the two join forces for something similar, in the future.

Image via Supreme

Earlier, we touched on the Kanye West Bapesta, which is highly regarded as one of the best sneaker collaborations of all time. Back in 2007, Kanye's fashion aspirations were hardly known about. He was just a year away from truly making a splash in that industry, but his infamous Bapesta was certainly a great start. What made this collaboration so amazing was the fact that it took his first three albums and encapsulated them into one piece of footwear. The hype around Ye was huge at the time, and these were another way for fans to feel tied to the rapper. It is a shoe that goes for over $5000 these days, and there is no doubt that it will continue to be heralded as BAPE's best rapper collab of all time.

Over the years, BAPE and Adidas have worked together on a plethora of collaborations. Back in 2019, fans were even blessed with an incredible Super Bowl collection that included jerseys, tights, and even some hoodies for good measure. Perhaps the best part of the entire Super Bowl collaboration was the footwear involved. For instance, Adidas dropped two colorways of the Adidas UltraBoost 4.0. In the image below, you can find the classic "Camo" version which features BAPE camo all across the Primeknit upper. The iconic Ape head on the tongue is made with an American flag, bringing the patriotic feel together. The other pieces included in the collection were similar, giving this collab an unmistakable identity.

Image via GOAT

Over the past couple of years, BAPE and Coach have come together on multiple collections. Their collections have been extremely unique, as BAPE takes the infamous "C" logo and incorporates it with the Ape head. As you have probably seen so far, BAPE is masterful when it comes to blending aesthetics between brands. This is another example of it, and in the multi-color shark hoodie below, you can see what makes the BAPE x Coach collab so perfect. Not to mention, this collection included a whole bunch of Bapestas, which you can't help but love to see.

Image via GOAT

Last but not least, we have the collaboration between BAPE and Drake's infamous imprint, OVO. These are two brands with a rich history of collaborations, so it only made sense that they would eventually come together on something of their own. These two are the perfect brands to team up with one another, especially when you consider how each brand has its own animal-based logo. With BAPE you have the Ape head and with OVO, you have the owl. Of course, these two elements were combined for various pieces of apparel, including hats, hoodies, t-shirts, and jackets. These pieces would mix BAPE camo with the owl logo, and on some occasions, you would get a big Ape head with the owl placed inside of it. If you love streetwear, the BAPE x OVO collection is definitely one you need a piece from.

Image via GOAT

BAPE's influence on the world of fashion, hip-hop, and popular culture as a whole is second to none. It's a brand that contains a rich cultural history and it was made famous because the man behind it exudes passion. From BAPE's signature aesthetics to its collaborative history, there is truly something for everyone here. Even if you don't care for streetwear, you can't help but respect what Nigo has built over the last 30 years.

Tell us some of your favorite BAPE pieces, in the comments down below.

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